Trimmer Repair – Replacing the Oil Seals (Echo Part # 10021242031)

Trimmer Repair – Replacing the Oil Seals (Echo Part # 10021242031)


Hi, I’m Mark from ereplacementparts.com. In this video, I’m going to show you how to
replace the oil seals on an echo trimmer. The oil seals form a seal between the crankcase
and the crankshaft. They also protect the crankshaft bearings
from dirt and other debris. If you’re getting any leaking past the seal,
its worn and it should be replaced. The seal should also be replaced any time
you remove them from the crankshaft when you’re doing other maintenance on the engine.The
oil seals are easy to replace, and we’re going to show you how. Oil seals, as well as many other parts can
be found on our website. Let’s get started. I’ll begin by removing the air filter cover
and the air filter. Before we remove any of the fuel lines from
either the carburetor or the fuel tank, you’ll want to make sure that you’ve drained the
gas from the fuel tank. Otherwise, it will leak as the fuel in the
tank tends to be slightly pressurized. I’ve already drained the fuel so we can go
ahead and move on.Next, I’ll remove the air filter bracket, as well as the air filter
base. They’re secured with two screws. There’s the air filter base and the air filter
bracket. Now I’ll remove the throttle cable and the
fuel lines from the carburetor. Pull that away from the carburetor as well
as the throttle cable, and on the underside, I’ll remove the fuel lines. Between the carburetor and the isolator block
is the intake gasket, and that will usually just fall away, or you may have to pull it
or scrape it away from the isolator block or the carburetor.Now go ahead and remove
the isolator block. Now remove the spark plug boot and the spark
plug. Now remove the motor housing, it’s held in
place with two screws. Now I can remove the insulator gasket. Now remove the starter, there’s four screws
on the back, one on the side and one between the fuel tank and the starter. Now remove the fuel tank, it’s secured with
two screws. Now remove the air duct, there’s just one
more screw securing it.Now separate the clutching shaft assembly from the engine. First we’ll go ahead and disconnect the ignition
wires, they just pull apart. Now remove the four screws that secure the
clutch housing to the engine. I’ll just give the motor a couple of taps
with a mallet and it’ll slide apart. Now remove the clutch but I can’t get simply
thread it off of the spindle because as I turn the clutch, the motor will just spin
so I need to bind up the motor.To do that, I’ll put a piece of starter rope into the
cylinder through the spark plug hole. The rope will take up the space between the
piston and the top of the cylinder and bind the engine. Now I can unthread the clutch. Now we have access to the flywheel. To remove it, I’ll pull out on the flywheel
and at the same time tap on the motor spindle with a rubber mallet. It’s important to use a rubber mallet here
because a metal hammer will damage the end of the spindle.Now remove the starter pulley. The cylinder is still bound with the starter
rope, so I’ll just use my pliers to thread it off of the spindle. Now remove the muffler, it’s secured with
two screws. Now remove the cylinder, it secured with two
screws, one on the side and one through a hole down through the top of the cylinder
head. Now I can separate the cylinder from the crankcase. Now separate the two halves of the crankcase,
it’s secured with three screws.To separate the crankcase halves, I need to push the crankshaft
through the bearing. To do that, I’ll just tip it back and use
again a rubber shot mallet. Again I can’t use metal here because I will
damage these spindles. Now remove the crankshaft from the other half
of the crankcase housing, and again, I’ll do that using my rubber mallet. There are bearing shaft oil seals on either
side of the crankcase, now I’ll go ahead and remove those.To remove the seal, I place the
crankcase seal side down. Now insert a screwdriver through the bearing
opening and against the seal and tap the seal out with a mallet. There’s one, now I’ll do the other side. Now install our new crankshaft oil seals. I’ll put a little oil on the outside of the
seal. I’m just using two cycle mix oil, the same
type of oil you put in the gas. Again, I’ll use a socket just about the same
size as the seal, it’s slightly smaller and tap the seal in place.Now we’ll reinstall
the crankshaft and piston assembly into both halves of the crank case. I want to insert the longer side of the crankshaft
into the larger side of the crank case. Before I do that, I want to go ahead and lubricate
the crankshaft and both seals and bearings on either side of the crank case. Again I’ll just use a little bit of the two
cycle mix oil that I used on the seals.Now I’ll slide the long end of the crankshaft
into the larger half of the crankcase. Again, using my rubber shot mallet, tap the
shaft into the bearing. I’m going to install a brand new crankcase
gasket. Anytime you split the crankcase, it’s a good
idea to install a new gasket. Now install the other half of the crankcase. I’ve tapped both sides of the crankcase housings
close enough together, so now the screws will go through and catch the threads on the other
side.I want to make sure that I have the gasket lined up, and I’ll go ahead and insert the
screws. Then I’ll use the screws to finish pulling
the two halves of the housing back together.I’ll just work my way around so that I pull equally
all the way around as we pull the housings together. Now I can go ahead and reinstall the cylinder
onto the crankcase and piston assembly. Before I do, I want to clean up any gasket
material that was left behind when I separated the two halves.It’s always a good idea to
replace the gasket whenever you separate the cylinder from the crankcase. I’ll use a razor blade to clean up the gasket. Now use some two-cycle-mix oil to lubricate
the cylinder before we slide it back onto the piston. This is just the same oil you’d mix into your
gasoline. Also place the new gasket onto the cylinder. Now we can slide the cylinder over the piston.I
want to make sure that I have the side of the cylinder with the ignition coil lined
up with the side of the crankcase with the longer shaft where the flywheel mounts. As I slide these together, I want to make
sure that the piston ring lines up the cylinder, I don’t want to force this and then I just
slide it back together. I’ll secure the cylinder with the two screws. Now I can reinstall the starter pulley and
with the cylinder bound, I’ll tighten it up.Now install our new flywheel. You’ll notice that the end of the crankshaft
is tapered and that lines up with a taper on the flywheel. Also there’s a key on the flywheel and that
lines up with the keyway on the crankshaft. The cooling fins go against the engine. Let’s have it aligned. I’ll give it a couple of taps with the rubber
shot mallet. We’ll tighten up the rest of the way with
the clutch. Now reinstall and secure the clutch. Now remove the starter rope from the cylinder.Whenever
you remove either the flywheel or the ignition coil, you’ll need to reset the air gap between
the magnets on the flywheel and the contacts on the ignition coil. To do that, I’ll use an ignition coil gapping
tool. All this is is a piece of plastic that’s 14,000s
of an inch thick. If you don’t have one of these tools, you
can usually just use a good heavy business card as that will be very close to the same
thickness. To set the gap, I’ll loosen the two screws
on the ignition coil.That allows me to move the coil. Now rotate the flywheel until the magnets
line up with the contacts on the ignition coil. Insert the gauge and allow the magnets to
pull the coil tight against the flywheel. Now I just tighten up the screws
and remove the gauge. Now replace the muffler and the muffler gasket. You’ll want to inspect the gasket and replace
it as needed. Now I can reinstall the engine assembly back
onto the shaft and clutch assembly.There’s some alignment pins to line everything up,
and then I’ll secure it with the screws. Now reconnect the ignition wires
and I’ll tuck the wires away in the holder on the side of the engine. Now reinstall the fuel tank. Now reinstall the air duct. Now install the starter. Line the starter up, sometimes if you get
the rope a little pull to get the starter pulse to engage, and then secure it with the
screws. Now install the insulator gasket.I’ll place
it up against the motor block and now work the cover over the top of the engine. The gasket needs to go behind the cover. I also want to make sure I have the ignition
wire inside of the cover. Once everything is aligned, I’ll secure the
cover with the screws. Now reinstall the spark plug and the spark
plug boot. Now install the carburetor insulator. These nuts go on the backside of the insulator,
and those are for the screws that secure the carburetor.You’ll notice there’s an opening
at the bottom of the insulator and that needs to line up with this opening on the bottom
of the intake port. I’ll thread the screws through the insulator
first, and that way I can line them up with the holes in the insulator gasket. Now we’ll reinstall the fuel lines and the
throttle cable to the carburetor. To install the fuel lines, first I need to
figure out which one is the incoming line. To do that I just open the gas tank, look
inside and find the line that has the fuel filter attached, in this case it’s the black
one. The yellow one will be the return line. Now on the carburetor, I want to find the
incoming side. To do that, I’ll place my finger over each
of the fuel line connections while priming. One of them won’t let any air out, and the
other will tend to suck against my finger, and that’s the incoming line.I’ll attach the
incoming line to the black or incoming fuel line and the return line, in this case to
the yellow fuel line. Now I’ll reinstall the throttle cable. First I’ll open up the throttle and thread
the cable into the connection on the top the carburetor. Next I’ll place the nut and hold it on the
carburetor and tighten up the secondary nut with a wrench. Now I’ll reinstall the air filter bracket,
air filter base, carburetor and the intake gasket.I’ll throw out the two screws that
hold this whole assembly through the air filter base. Next, they thread through the carburetor,
and then through the intake gasket. Again, I want to line up the holes on the
gasket with the hole on the insulator block. Now I’ll install the air filter and the air
filter cover. That’s how it takes to replace the oil sales
on your Echo trimmer. If you found this video helpful, be sure to
give us a thumbs up and leave a comment.

5 thoughts on “Trimmer Repair – Replacing the Oil Seals (Echo Part # 10021242031)

  1. Hello. I've learned quite a bit by watching your videos. Can you replace the crank seals without splitting the case? I have a seal tool that removes seals with the shaft still present. If I could, that would save me a lot of time and steps. I know you folks make the videos with the average DIYer in mind and the tools the average guy has on hand.
    Thanks,
    Dave

  2. No need to disassemble that far.    Expose the Shaft side and the Recoil side of the  engine.    use a small Sheet metal screw and screw into the seal use a pair of Pliers and pull on the screw head and out comes the seal.    lube the new seal and slide it over the shaft and Gently tap in the seal evenly with a wood dowel going side to side . or Lisle Tool   makes a on engine seal puller that you can use  about 20 bucks

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