Vaellus Lapissa syksyllä 2018


Hello. Today is the last day of August it´s a sunny, beautiful day in Lapland, Northern Finland we´re starting another wilderness hike here This location is lake Kopsusjärvi I´ve been walking for a day already It was about 20km (12 miles) hike here yesterday I spent the night here, and woke up in my hammock to this gorgeus day we´ll get going from here We have a week of time to hike here in the UKK National Park We´ll see how the northern nature presents itself this time the weather is very good now, and it´ll be a smooth trip if this continues that we cannot know for sure of course You´re welcome to come along! Seven Days Solo Wilderness Hike It´s an interesting time to be up North Autumn is just around the corner Fall colours are bright on the trees so it looks like autumn, but it´s still very warm like in summer yesterday afternoon it was like 20C (68F) It gets sweaty with the backpack but on the other hand it´s so easy to be outside when it´s so warm I wanted to visit lake Kopsusjärvi because I haven´t been here before and I had heard there´s a view to the Nattas fells I wanted to see it it´s a nice location, a very quiet part of the Park I met another solo hiker in the morning, but we talked briefly and took a look at the map He quickly continued his hike towards the Nattas fells besides that, I´ve been alone here To the left is Suku-Nattanen – “Family” anf to the right Terävä-Nattanen “Sharp” They are very distinct looking fell tops the sharp shapes make them easy to recognise Especially Terävä-Nattanen There are five or six tops total in the Nattas fells, can´t remember for sure just now, but the other tops can´t be seen from here Kiilopää Hotel, our entry point to the wilderness is here and lake Kopsusjärvi is to the south of it I came along a usual route and passed a day hut here, a lean-to shelter here, an open cabin here, and from there there´s a trail over the hill to lake Kopsusjärvi For this trip I don´t have any strict plans for the time here, let´s head back to a main trail and possibly head toward this campsite for the next night we were there on last fall´s hike also it´s good ground for camping and we can continue different ways from there there´s no strict plans, let´s just see how the hike unfolds I made a poor choice of boots this time it´s too warm for these boots my feet are burning I was thinking I´ll take these or my paratrooper boots very basic leather boots or these, I took these, but it it was a bad choice I´ll manage, but I´d rather have breathable boots These kind of boots are great in this terrain with a lot of boggy, wet terrain crossings of streams and rivers I won´t have to switch shoes all the time I´ll get across many shallow rivers with these, even I put on a lighter shirt and we´re ready to go I had planned to go to another wilderness on this trip too, but you can´t get there with public transportation so I gave up on that plan the UKK National Park is easy to reach only one switch, from the train to bus and I´ll get to an entry point the area is huge after all there´s so much to see here It´s also good when you know an area already it´s way easier to just relax, and easier to navigate and such When you´re familiar with an area Nearby lake Kopsusjärvi is a small reservation cabin a charming small hut I was thinking it might be nice to stay here in the winter for a couple of nights and go out on skis or snowshoes nearby I dehydrated a kilo (2.2 lbs) of apples for snacks they´re very good I could eat these very quickly too this weighs pretty much nothing and eating 4-5 pieces like this is basically like eating an apple This is an old hut from 1935 it´s not in use anymore, but I think you can enter, it´s not locked It looked ok basically names in the guestbook too I guess you can use to stay overnight Good morning I had a good, long sleep ten hours or so I´m feeling good, but it´s too comfortable to get up The sun is shining it´s 9.30 We´re at Tuiskukuru campsite on the exact same spot as on last fall´s trip actually For breakfast I have a somewhat traditional meal I guess – coffee, an egg, oatmeal I have six eggs with me which is kinda crazy it´s not exactly lightweight but it´s awesome to have an egg for breakfast! It makes me forget my backpacks´s weight At least for a moment I dehydrated some raspberries, for the oatmeal I have a bunch of those it´s a good addition to basic oatmeal Boiled egg into cold water briefly It´ll cool down and the shell will remove better I´ll make the oatmeal into the same water Don´t have to get more water and boil it from the start Here´s the raspberries I dehydrated three 500g (1lbs) packs of raspberries I had some yesterday morning of course Raspberries dehydrate into pretty small in weight but it took like three days in the dehydrator I guess berries take a long time to dehydrate or at least these raspberries did Okay, breakfast is served! one egg, strong coffee, oatmeal with raspberries Pretty nice! After I´ve been out for a couple of days and been living the outdoor life, I often start to experience these moments where I linger in quiet moments time kind of pauses and I stay in the here and now At the same time I´m not thinking about anything yet very aware and focused Concscious of the world and myself all the rubbish thought gets quiet These are very enjoyable moments It often occurs when sitting by a fire the sound and movement of the flames lead me deeper into myself We´re approaching the Park core Here´s the highest peak Sokosti That one is called Hietapää where we ascended on last fall´s trip there´s a sharp edge on the felltop We´ve arrived at lake Luirojärvi it´s a ridiculously good view to the fells Magnificent! we´re on the west shore of the lake not at the popular cabin and campsite the cabin is somewhere around there it´s not right at shore, can´t see it from here This is our scenery for the evening and night Pretty awesome! The fire ring is a bit away from the shore it´s an official park fire ring with firewood there´s plenty of wood I´ll light a fire briefly it´s 7pm and it´s getting chilly the sun is starting to set the last light is unto the opposite shore, so it won´t warm here I´m pretty stoked with the scenery I´ve passed this place before, but it´s my first time camping here plenty of time to admire the great nature here It´s always a huge relief to the get the boots off they are too hot for this weather YESS I think I´ll make some evening coffee I´m so happy about this campsite a cup of coffee will be great It´s a mess in my backpack, the lower part I keep all food and cooking gear here All camping gear are in the top compartment I like to have them separately here it´s not optimal weight-wise the biggest weight should be here now it´s here in the bottom I still prefer to have the gear separated like this camping gear and clothes on top, food and cooking stuff on the bottom Makes more sense, for me anyway Here´s the coffee I also have a nice new knife let´s have a look I randomly discovered this Helle Temagami knife while browsing the net (lamnia.fi) I liked this so much I wanted one it´s almost like a Mora, but a tougher build I like wooden handles best on a knife it´s especially good in cold temperatures feels better in the hand better than plastic anyway Nothing spectacular in this, a basic Nordic puukko style knife it´s full tang, but only half the width this is like a lighter version of a full scale survival knife, what would be used for the toughest tasks, but I don´t beat my knife hard, ever for me it´s a basic camping tool The handle is perfect in this one the belly part is great I´m sure it has a name which I don´t know, but anyway the handle fits perfectly in a large palm the blade is stainless steel by the way, not the most traditional puukko steel this is still easy enough to sharpen After a couple of days of hiking, I´m starting to notice the strain. Today I hiked only 8km (5 miles), yesterday 17km (10.5 miles), and on the first day 20km (12.5 miles) Yet todays hike felt as long as the other days even when the distance was less than half my recovery is not keeping up, it seems luckily todays hike was shorter I could´ve taken a shorter hike yesterday too but when I set my mind on a goal for the day, I won´t back off very easily I´ll rather push to make the distance Here´s my nest for the coming night I´ve double checked all the cords that carry weight My tarp is basically in storm mode here three connection points per side here in the North the weather can change quick can´t know what the night will bring My tarp is ready for possible high winds Morning! it was grey and foggy earlier completely overcast now it´s getting clearer I can even see the felltops now I was thinking, let´s head up to the felltop for some views First I thought I´d take all my gear and continued over the fell, but let´s just make a day hike We have 4 full days here still no need to rush it Also, the reasonable routes from up there would take us to the same places we visited just on the last trip in June I´ll break camp before we head up to the fell we´ll be spending most of the day there, and this is a remote place I don´t want to leave my stuff out for the whole day So I´ll pack everything, and take my pack to the closest hut foxes and such don´t usually go to the huts at daytime the critters could be curious of my sruff here it´s not a big deal to pack everything It´s not likely that there would be a problem, but why risk it We´ll spend another night somewhere in here too, so possibly in this same place i´ll decide later I´ll break camp for the day anyways The hut is quiet, it seems a couple of backpacks, but no one here I´ll leave my pack here too I have my small bag with a wood stove, pot, one meal, some coffee what else did I take…a water bottle The basic stuff for staying out for a day No need to rush back for food or so there´s also a lot of berries now I can eat those too The park officials don´t approve the making rock piles it´s forbidden in National Parks on the felltops they are useless but I wonder if the officials know that these were, and are used as pathmarks like here, the trail comes over a stream and if it´s very foggy and rainy or bad visibility in general it helps that the path is marked on the other side These can be found at the sides of the fells also coming down from the high ground to where the vegetation begins, and towards the treeline a stack of rocks often marks a path so it´s easier to get on a trail Oh man, the view! a great sight indeed The views are often better just above the treeline rather than from the top it´s a more detailed view on this altitude Berries are tough and grow on surprisingly high altitude lingonberries seem to do just fine here and on the highest elevation grows crowberries I guess they are the toughest of all The rock field is not fun to hike on even if the rocks are steady on the ground they´ve been here since the end of the ice age I guess they´ll stay put for a few more moments as I´ll pass There are differing opinions on what kind of shoes or boots are best here basic soft boots like mine are fine as well I can feel the ground under my feet very well balance is better that way of course it depends on what kind of shoes one´s ankles and feet are used to Quite a climb here! The wind is getting crazy up here Looks like the moon this is to the east fells side by side The view is far unto Russia as well they have some awesome mountains I haven´t seen the whole of Lapland, but I can´t imagine a better place than this There´s so much here. Fells, rivers, lakes, valleys gorges in between the fells, many great campsites, large forests For me the UKK is the heart of Lapland and the North There´s the highest point we were just on a gorge begins here there´s a stream in the bottom of it let´s head down to the stream and get water then we´ll look for a spot to cook food I´m getting really hungry here That´s fresh water straight from the side of the fell it´s basically the best water anywhere I´ll fill my bottle Good morning, today is monday and it´s the fifth day of hiking it´s time to set the course back it´s still warm and sunny almost like summer still it´s very easy and comfortable to be out We´ve been lucky weather-wise About last evening. I was coming down from the fellside I noticed that there were huge blueberries growing on the slope they tasted great, and there was a million of ´em I just sat down and ate I had so many I wasn´t hungry anymore I just came down, got my pack and returned here I spent the night on this same campsite I like this place, a good view and no people I gladly returned here for another night Here´s the Luirojärvi lake area on the map fells surround the lake basically the lake is in a valley in between Very nice views on all sides here it´s a legendary place Here´s the campsite we´ve been on We went to the Sokosti peak from here this is the highest peak, 719 meters then we followed a ridge for a bit and came down to the gorge here and back on the trail Our route for today is that we´ll go back a bit from where we came from but soon we´ll turn northwest along a stream on the other side of the fell we´ll follow another stream down I don´t know yet where we´ll camp the next night We´ll determine that as we go I enjoyed staying here very much I can´t believe it´s next to the most crowded hut in the Park and I´ve been here all alone for two nights Some more great views it´s a wide valley with a stream it really opens up the scenery Looks amazing! Well the Park still surprised me! I´ve been here many times seen much of it this route between the fells still amazed me I´m so happy I chose this route If I had to recommend a route to lake Luirojärvi, this would definitely be it! The day went on, sunny like summer I followed the stream down and arrived at Palovanganjoki campsite oddly it says a different name on a sign there my map is newer than the sign, so I´ll trust the map My pack had gotten heavy again, and I was hungry, so I had a lunch break there I planned for an hours break, but it ended up being a two hour break As simple as my food was, it tasted great I´ve sometimes thought to myself, that if I ever get picky about food here, I haven´t hiked enough but my appetite is good after some hiking on the fellsides I saw a rescue chopper in the distance at least I thought it was a rescue chopper by the color but it was from a distance. I don´t think it was a border guard chopper. I don´t know what their business was, but they never fly without a good reason it´s expensive to fly out here in the middle of nowhere someone must have been in dire need of their help After the break I continued along the river, in the evening sun The stream grew into a river as I headed down it was a nice wilderness river The route for the fifth day in whole was we took the northernmost trail here and followed Ampuoja stream upwards this was the open area with the views I made a navigation error here I thought I was going here but I actually was a kilometer or so west of there that route goes to two small ponds there I slowly realised I wasn´t supposed to be there I wasn´t expecting any lakes or ponds, so that´s how I started thinking after inspecting the map closely, I knew where I was again the trails actually meet later, so no harm was done Here´s the campsite where we had lunch after that, the river grows quickly towards downstream that day we ended up at Padagova campsite The sixth day of hiking was grey and rainy mostly I was feeling lazy anyway so I spent most of the day at camp I took a couple of walks by the river admiring the wild river flow At around 5pm I continued on first along the river and over an old bridge to the other side That bridge was rotten especially the handrail if you stumble on the planks and grab the rail by reflex, the rail won´t hold your weight, no way you´ll fall through I finally got my feet washed first time on this trip That was river Suomujoki we crossed over to this campsite I was thinking should I stay here for the night, or go to a hut nearby I´m not sure if I´ve talked about this before, but I´ve replaced the top straps of my Savotta 906 pack the original ones are very, very long they have to be tied to the frame each time or else they flap all over when hiking I changed them to these these are very useful when crossing water it´s easy and quick to attach the boots here and just as easy and quick to release them I don´t need to hassle with the long straps each time I have them if I need them but haven´t needed yet Morning it´s the seventh day already the day when I´ll have to reach the exit point and get on a bus tomorrow we´re at Lankojärvi hut and campsite The rain has been on and off all day it´s looking a little better now the sky is blue back where I came from where I´m headed, it´s grey and rainy looking maybe it gets better later the last night of the hike I spent on a campsite next to Kiilopää fell hotel The hike had served it´s purpose I was grateful for the days here, but also ready to head on home. The best times of this hike were in the first days I finally got to visit lake Kopsusjärvi it´s like a little world of it´s own separated from the busy trails it was a quiet place I slept great there, so I really liked it there and got to see tha Nattas fells Lake Luirojärvi is like a jewel in the wilderness I always enjoy my time there the campsite was awesome good views, quiet lonesome place it was hard to believe no one else was there The most memorable moment was when I left lake Luirojärvi and followed the stream upwards I hadn´t been there before and wasn´t expecting anything I followed the stream, but kept looking back at the majestic fell scenery it was breathtaking the vast open space, on a sunny day like that was a great experience, and I will return there On the other side of the fell we continued by a river that area is great with old pine forests and the wild river I enjoyed following the river at dusk all in all, that day was the best day of my time here This trip ends here, thank you for coming along we will continue in the next one! Bye now!

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